Ringside Steakhouse

2165 W Burnside St., 223-1513, ringsidesteakhouse.com.

One of most daunting, beautiful wine lists in the city—blending a deep selection of locals with Bordeaux from the old country—is here at RingSide. The upstairs racks are just for show. Take the elevator down to the basement, where crates and crates of wine—more than 100 labels—are maturing from great harvests past. RingSide may be known for its dry-cure rooms for steaks, but the wine storage is just as impressive.

Bar Vivant/Pix Patisserie

2225 E Burnside St., 971-271-7166, barvivant.com.

Cheryl Wakerhauser's Bar Vivant is half tapas bar, half Pix Patisserie macaron bar. It also houses the most impressive list of sparkling wine, Spanish wine and sherry in the Portland area, amid Lord knows what else—all at a place with an incongruous bull on the roof, where you can play pétanque in the backyard.

Coopers Hall

404 SE 6th Ave., 719-7000, coopershall.com.

This former auto-repair warehouse—a vaulted space filled with sunlight—is the first all-keg winery in Oregon, with 44 taps pouring Coopers Hall's own product alongside cider from its in-house cidery, Alter Ego, and other mostly local wines and craft beer. It's also Portland's most vaunted after-party reservation, with a lovely upper-deck event space.

SE Wine Collective

2425 SE 35th Place, 208-2061, sewinecollective.com.

Ten wineries produce their wine in this pocket-sized space tucked just off Southeast Division Street. Get a mix of them in a wine flight, alongside a deviled-egg flight, in the homey room looking out on the production area.

Coppia

417 NW 10th Ave., 295-9536, coppiapdx.com.

Nowhere else in Portland is food so wholeheartedly designed for wine, and vice versa. Coppia has switched owners from Pink Martini singer to red-state restaurateur Bill Ludwig, but the chef and sommelier are the same. Each item, whether olive bowl or duck-breast entree, gets its own personal (probably Italian) pairing.

Noble Rot

1111 E Burnside St., 233-1999, noblerotpdx.com.

With one of the eastside's few rooftop views, Noble Rot is a Portland classic. The entire wine list is estimable, but the most singular offerings are dessert wines, from its trademark Noble Rot flight of Sauternes or moscatos to a lovely 1983 Don PX sherry in a generous $14 pour.

OSO Market + Bar

404 SE 6th Ave., 719-7000, coopershall.com.

Next to Kachka and around the corner from Trifecta—not to mention six or seven whiskey-beer juke joints—Oso is a refined cocktail, beer and especially wine gem, offering 25 varieties by the glass from domaines often unexpected, not to mention a $15 merchant's choice flight guaranteed to slip a few welcome surprises into the glasses.