Wong's King

By Penelope Bass

If you go to Wong's King for dim sum and don't completely cover every square inch of the table with plates and small, steaming metal dishes, you're not doing it right. In the sprawling, brightly lit banquet hall with lilac-clad servers bustling carts laden with intriguing—if sometimes unidentifiable—morsels, the experience can seem a bit daunting. Simply point and know that you will be rewarded with delicious things like pillowy barbecue pork steamed buns, fall-off-the-bone short ribs, delicate cilantro shrimp dumplings or crispy chicken paws for the adventurous. If you're not up for the dim sum wait (and wait you will), dinner options feature better-than-average Chinese and pan-Asian standards with an ocean's bounty of fresh seafood. You'll already feel like royalty—why not dine with the gluttonous excess of a feudal lord?

Pro tip: Order anything and everything that looks tasty and/or bizarre; you'll still be hard-pressed to lay down more than $20 a meal. But be sure to ask the market price on any seafood.

GO: 8733 SE Division St., 788-8883, wongsking.com. 10 am-10 pm Monday-Thursday, 10 am-11 pm Friday, 9:30 am-11 pm Saturday, 9:30 am-10 pm Sunday. $$.

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