13551 NW Cornell Road, 469-8800, bollywoodbitesportland.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Newly nestled next to the Cedar Mill Safeway in a strip mall set for remodel, Bollywood Bites is poised to carry Sunset Mall into a new era. The dining space is tidy and bright, with cheery service and a wide range of offerings. Mostly, the menu features quality takes on standard Indian dishes: The tandoori cuts bring welcome heat, the tikka masala runs a little dry, and the naan is above average. But the standouts are the Hyderabadi biryanis, decadent mounds of basmati and South Indian spices mixed with vegetables and a slew of protein options; the lamb and chicken are optimal launch points. Also, there's an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet from 11 am to 3 pm daily, when you can sample and gorge yourself on biryanis like a feasting king, should that be your inclination.