2713 NE Sandy Blvd., 971-220-2162, bywatergrocery.com. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.

In new Sandy Boulevard food complex "the Zipper," Bywater's "the Original" ($5.50-$8) takes a custom French loaf by Alessio—it has a few sesame seeds for texture and crushes flat, the way a po'boy should—and tops it with french fries and mayonnaise. At first, a mayonnaise-and-french-fry sandwich struck us as some sort of statement about rural Southern poverty. But, hot damn, it's good. That loaf has a nice snap, and the simple toppings—pickles, lettuce, tomatoes and crunchy fries—fill it out nicely. The bread pudding ($4) is worth picking up from anywhere at the Zipper. It's served in a slab that easily serves two, with a crispy exterior, a warm and soft interior, and a smoky-sweet bourbon sauce. It's a bargain—provided you can handle any more carbs after that french-fry-and-mayonnaise sandwich.