910 N Killingsworth St., 286-1401, enjonicafe.com. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday, lunch Friday-Sunday.

This bright orange box on Killingsworth gives you heat options on a Thai-style number scale. Beware, when they say a four is hot, they mean it. Heck, even the "two" is pretty hot on the siga tibs ($12), beef cubes in a thick sauce of jalapeños and berbere. The veggie combo is a great bargain, a mix 'n' match of five options ($13), such as okra and zucchini along with the familiar lentils, cabbage and spinach. They tend to be cooked closer to the soggy end of the scale, but they've got enough heat to keep you on your toes.