822 NE Broadway, 288-1007. Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.

The hand-pulled noodles made in this small house on Broadway are simple and pretty much perfect. The fat, chewy strings of dough are pleasantly taut, and get even better when they're sopped in sauces that tend toward oily and pack lots of flavor. The noodles with rich, deeply satisfying black bean sauce ($9.95) come highly recommended, as do the regular stir-fried noodles with chicken and four-scale spiciness ($10.95). Beware that waits can be long, there's little room to wait inside, and some of the appetizers aren't worth the scratch. But if you want fresh noodles, this is the spot.