136 NW 9th Ave., 222-5608. Breakfast and lunch daily.

Take one step into Fuller's, and you'll feel like you're back in 1947, when the always-packed Pearl District greasy spoon opened across the river. Fuller's old-timey charm comes from a combination of its zigzagging lunch-counter setup—whose cozy quarters may have been the progenitor of modern communal dining—the endearingly labyrinthine menu and its incredible low-ball prices, particularly for the Special ($4.25): a plate-sized pancake, two strips of bacon and an egg. You'll be hard-pressed to find a breakfast this big and this good at this price anywhere else on the westside, let alone in the rest of the city. In an area that has developed into a jungle of Chipotle-wave décor, millennial apartment complexes and elite boutiques, Fuller's remains a deservedly popular bastion of a bygone time when elderly men in overalls could enjoy a glass of milk ($2) with their omelet.