4606 SE Division St., 929-0522, kimjonggrillin.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

Few carts in town have faced the trials of Kim Jong Grillin', Han Ly Hwang's revelation in Korean barbecue that rises like a Phoenix (literally, because it once burned) on a lonely covered cart locale across from the Woodsman Tavern. The stand serves shaved bulgogi and galbi short ribs in gargantuan mounds, worthy of a filling dinner and breakfast the next day. The true gems of the menu: the heaping bibim box, which offers your choice of bulgogi or galbi stacked over jhapchae and covered with a fried egg; and the KJG hot dog, a classic Jersey frankfurter tucked in a banh mi bun and stuffed with daikon kimchi, kimchi mayo, and piquant pickled mango. Perhaps if the current Kim Jong ate so well and affordably, he wouldn't be executing defense ministers with anti-aircraft guns.