5026 SE Division St., 232-8226; 32 NW 5th Ave., 971-266-8575; mmmtacospdx.com. (Division) Dinner Tuesday-Sunday, lunch Saturday-Sunday; (Chinatown) lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday.

First, the disclosure: Triple-M boss man Nick Zukin is a sometime-contributor to WW, and someone we reach out to for intel on other spots in this guide. Zuke's own place is dedicated to his passion for Mexican street food, particularly the stewy taco fillings known as guisados. When it comes to selecting a filling for your taco or burrito, always err on the side of richness: While we found the chicken verde on our most recent visit a little dry, in a sauce lacking the biting crispness we look for in tomatillo, his smoked lamb knocked me on my ass. It's a deep-brownish red in color, and tastes just a little gamey and a lot smoky. I've also really come to appreciate the house tortilla chips, which are fresh-fried from leftover rustic corn tortillas, ending up thick and rugged in a very satisfying way.

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