1430 SE Water Ave., 238-6356, noranekoramen.com. Lunch, dinner and late-night daily.

Noraneko is Biwa's ramen-ya spinoff on an industrial Southeast Water Avenue corner by the train tracks, a spartan, honey-wooded nook with 30 seats, plus a bar serving lovely, fruity shochu drinks for summer. Noraneko doesn't include the fixins with its four $9 ramens—go for miso or especially the vegan mushroom—but you're a sucker not to add to them when you order at the counter before sitting. Tack on $3 for pork chasyu or pork belly, plus $1 for that perfect molten-centered egg, and it's $13 and worth it. A tip, though? Eat late. Between midnight and 2 am, when you really need it, ramen is a mere $5.