4138 SE Woodstock Blvd., 771-6714. Lunch daily.

This third-generation sausage maker is the flavor of my childhood, the place I learned hot dogs could transcend the grim world of Hebrew National and Costco parking lots to become something greater: the platonic ideal of sausage, alder smoke, healthy snap and meat free of filler, served on Franz rolls toasted on an outdoor grill every day of the week to the hungry people of Woodstock (as well as the occasional cosmopolitan Southeast suburbanite). Get the old-fashioned wiener ($4), and try Otto's newfangled jalapeño mustard with some kraut. And then go inside and order some brats for your home freezer.