Northeast 52nd Avenue and Sandy Boulevard, 971-570-0945, pdx671.com. Lunch Wednesday-Saturday, dinner Friday-Saturday.
The food of Guam—Chamorro cuisine—is a mashup of the myriad cultures that have influenced this small Pacific island. The upshot is a lot of weird dishes that, as interpreted by Guamanian cart master Ed Sablan, are as compelling as they are offbeat. The superstar is kelaguen mannok ($6.50), cubes of smoky grilled chicken combined with chopped scallion, bits of red chili, grated coconut and a squirt or two of lemon. It's assertive, balanced and bountiful. The wondrous wingman for this dish is the best flat bread I've ever tasted: The dough for titiyas ($3.50) relies on coconut milk and butter, resulting in magnificent, char-spotted disks that are simultaneously soft, chewy and ethereally fragrant. Sablan has been banging out his homeland specialties from this cart for six years now. Maybe he's ready to come in from the cold?