2518 NE 82nd Ave., 262-8816. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

Pho Oregon makes some of the biggest and baddest pho in Portland, with some of the most terrifically fatty broth. The restaurant, which looks like a Mexican adobe turned into a Motel 6, with inexplicable palm trees on either side, serves its specialty, dac biet—a noodle bowl heaped with round steak, flank, fatty brisket, tendon, tripe and beef meatballs and an Kinfolk-approved plate overflowing with sprigs of herb, sprout and limes—all for $9.99. Besides being large enough for three separate meals, each spoonful is densely packed with meat. But eat fast. The bowl's like a hot tub—the longer you're in, the murkier and more lukewarm it becomes. If you're not getting pho for whatever reason, the bun dau hu with vermicelli noodles, tofu and vegetables isn't much of a quest, but doesn't make you feel like you had reverse liposuction.