Pollos A La Brasa El Inka

48 NE Division St., Gresham, 491-0323, elinkarestaurant.com. Lunch and dinner daily.

What's a few first-degree burns in the name of happiness? That's the question you'll be asking yourself when you start eviscerating your steaming half of spice-rubbed chicken ($13.99) at this Peruvian rotisserie stalwart with your bare hands. Sure, it provides cutlery, but why deny yourself the pleasure of feeling the chicken's meat literally falling off the bone as you pick it up, all the connecty bits melted into deliciousness by its long sojourn on the wood-fired rotisserie. You're going to be plucking at the huge mound of house-cut fries accompanying the bird with your fingers anyway, so I say cut out the middleman and tuck in. While other shops are now making pollo a la brasa, El Inka still handily smacks down the new Peruvian entrants (Lima Peruvian and Polli-Tico) so decisively it's still well worth the drive to Gresham.

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