Southeast 12th Avenue and Hawthorne Boulevard (Cartopia pod), 929-1404, Lunch and dinner daily, late-night Monday-Saturday.

Amid an explosion of wood-fired, artisanal and often overambitious pies, it could become easy to take the simplicity and execution of Pyro for granted. But while newer spots ascend upwards of $14 for lesser 12-inchers, Pyro offers some of Portland's most beautiful pizza—charred just to the bubble burst, imbued with character that goes down to the center of the wheat, topped with sausage and onion and tangy mozzarella that cart owner John Eads made himself—for $10. It will leave you just on the right side of decadent and the weird side of full: the point at which your stomach threatens, just for a moment, to stop your heart.