6611 SE Powell Blvd., 757-8255. Lunch and dinner daily.

Salt and Pepper is a beautiful secret. Once a much-loved Peruvian food cart out in deep, deep Southeast at 82nd Avenue and Flavel Street, the spot has revived in recent months as a sit-down Peruvian place in the back end of the Tienda El Campesino store on Powell, to the right of the door and up a small flight of stairs. It is a temple of beef, whether lomo saltado—a mixed grill of charred steak and fries and vegetables—a piquant sancochado soup of meat and potatoes, or a note-perfect seco de res, essentially a dried-beef stew. It also just recently started serving its own housemade picarones, a Peruvian sweet-potato take on the beignet.