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4915 NE Fremont St., 281-2322, stanichs.com. Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Sunday.
A local landmark that's stretched the waistlines of everyone from Dan Rather to Michael Jordan over its 67 years—and which some locals doggedly insist is the first place to ever put bacon on a burger—Stanich's remains blessedly immune to evolving dietary concerns and trending taste buds. The fries (small with sandwich, $1.25) are still hand-cut from unskinned potatoes. Stanich's menu still lopes between dullish lunch-counter mainstays and variations on its signature marriage of ground beef, cheese, tomatoes, lettuce, onions and bun-based delivery system ($7.25). In a world increasingly accustomed to viewing hamburgers as either dollar-menu practicalities or a canvas for artisanal flourishes—even Stanich's longtime special ($8) buries the lede under egg, bacon and ham—it's easy to forget just how satisfying a full-bodied rendition of the original template can be. While newcomers may be misled by the many hanging pennants into believing they could catch a game on one of the flat-screen TVs, don't bother requesting a different channel from the overburdened staff. They're far too busy to change anything.
Check out Willamette Week's 2016 Cheap Eats guide here.
Willamette Week