943 SE Oak St., 640-4755. Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily.

When people say they want "authentic" Mexican, what they mean is this little taqueria in the heart of Hillsboro. Here, the champurrado comes in in styrofoam cups, the meats are grilled out under a tarp, the meats include all manner of offal, and the taco platters come with sliced onions and fat jalapeños charred into soft, smoky beauty. It's more than atmosphere, though—every sauce is spot-on, every meat is well-seasoned, and that corny, cocoa-y champurrado will warm you up on the dreariest of winter days. Our entire meal was consumed by a conversation about what would happen if this place weren't 40-plus minutes from the center of the city.