SE 102nd Ave. & Stark St., 449-1531. Lunch daily.

It isn't easy to find this cart, which is tucked behind fences in a small pod at the intersection of 102nd Avenue and Stark Street. Hint: It's across the street from a Starbucks, kind of. But a steaming takeout box of pelmeni covered in dill and spices ($7 for chicken, $8 for lamb) will be worth a couple trips around the block. The traditional Russian dumplings are made for winter: they warm you up and inspire post-meal napping, if not a full hibernation. If you need more, and you won't, but you'll want more, the meat bliny ($5 for two pieces) is basically a tasty crepe filled with ground spiced meat. It strikes the perfect balance between sweet and savory. You may finish it in your car before you make it home.