That's a long wind-up for a review of chef Johnny Leach's four-month-old Chalino, the latest fancy Mexican spot run by an American-born chef situated among pricey new apartments. There are a lot of really nice, fresh flavors and fun ideas, and there are also some frustrations. Chalino strikes me as a pretty good version of the tostaderia, though not yet the game-changer I'd love to see.
But, obviously, there's that price. Sure, as a wise man once noted, there's no such thing as free rice—but at $16, it needs to be a showstopper, and it's not.
The tostadas ($6-10) have been inconsistent on our three visits. The best of the bunch was topped with rich carnitas ($7), amped up with cane sugar, fish sauce and a cashew salsa. Bean sprouts were added to cut the fattiness, but disappeared under the sweetness and umami in an unbalanced dish. A hefty dose of tomatillo and lime could make this a whole different thing.
On the other hand, a small plate of two small wild nettle sopes ($12) was beautiful all around. The sopes got their gorgeous green color and a pleasant earthiness from the nettles, and were then built up with blood sausage and Oaxacan cheese, then brightened with pickled serrano.
For me, those were one of four must-order items, along with dessert (more in a minute), a halibut ceviche ($16) with bitter orange and shiso, and a very tasty poloma ($10) that gets a round agave flavor from both tequila and mezcal.
The large plates, however, need some work. A batter-fried half-chicken ($22) served with extra-nutty arbol sauce and a standard taqueria escabeche didn't do anything for me. The chicken was unremarkable but for its heavy batter, and the salsas and escabeches didn't easily combine with the bird. Maybe fresh tortillas would help?
But there's a sweet ending in the form of the exquisite roasted pineapple ice cream ($6). Turns out, Chalino has tapped Le Pigeon pastry chef Helen Jo, and among her offerings is the best dessert I've had in a long time: a roast pineapple ice cream topped with mezcal-infused dulce de leche and toasted pumpkin and sunflower seeds. There's even a little cilantro as a garnish—the sort of creative and effective flair that makes upscale dining what it is.
That pineapple ice cream ended up being the strongest argument I've yet encountered for Portland's tostaderias. More of that, please.
Chalino, 25 N. Fremont St., 503-206-6421, chalinopdx.com. 5-10 pm Monday-Saturday.