Consensus is hard to come by in Portland food, but pretty much everyone agrees on Apizza Scholls. Owner Brian Spangler arrived on Hawthorne's Barmuda Triangle from tiny Scholls, Oregon, in 2005, at a time when pizza options were much more limited, and though the city has fallen for other styles since, his Neapolitan-adjacent pies remain the standard bearer.

What's the secret? It could be the electric oven, which allows for greater temperature control than wood or gas and ensures a consistent cook each time. Or it might be the strict policy of not allowing more than three toppings per pie, which would throw off the baking process.

Whatever the specifics, the end result has been the same for the past decade-plus: a thin, crispy, evenly charred crust and salty-sweet sauce that elevates whatever you happen to put on top of it, whether it's salami and green olives ($26), the famous crumbled sausage with Mama Lil's peppers ($26), or just the makings for a simple margherita ($22).

About the only thing that's changed through the years is the wait time: The restaurant has taken gradual steps to alleviate its famous crowds, from expanding into the space next door to offering to-go orders to allowing reservations for groups of eight or less. That's not to say you and the fam can just waltz right in—but even if you've got some time to kill before your name is called, the bar half is hiding a sweet mini-arcade.

Pro tip: Solo diners can get personal pizzas at the bar, provided there's a seat open.

GO: 4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-233-1286, apizzascholls.com, 5-9:30 pm Monday-Friday, 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5-9:30 pm Saturday-Sunday. $-$$.