Beast

(Hilary Sander)
No description of Beast would be complete without a quick history lesson. In 1999, chef Naomi Pomeroy and her silver-tongued former spouse founded Ripe, a supper club of dubious legality that initially operated out of their home. Ripe and Pomeroy rocketed to local and eventually national fame; the couple opened more restaurants; then the whole thing crashed and burned.

From the ashes, Beast arose Phoenix-like in 2007. An iconic photo of Pomeroy standing seductively in a field, a dispatched hog flung over her shoulder, would become emblematic of her star power and resilience. A James Beard Award, TV food competitions and still greater notoriety followed. Beast and Pomeroy were known for their set menu, communal seating and edgy vibe, with "substitutions politely declined" becoming a trendsetting menu mantra. For years, an open seat was as rare as Portland sunshine in November.

Today, the communal seating remains as does a set menu ($125, including gratuity, for six courses, $50 for wine pairings), though the meaty focus of the original has given way to more contemporary tastes and cost considerations. On a recent visit, the beast that appeared tableside tended to be the swimming kind, like a delicate poached sole fillet wrapped around a mousseline of minced scallop and shrimp. Land animals were limited to a beef ragu-filled pasta and a slice of ham in a prosaic cheese course before dessert. There were a few empty chairs, too. Though Beast may have lost its edge, it is still an iconic meal understandably on most newcomers' must-try lists.

Pro tip: Unlike a lot of celebrity chefs, Pomeroy still puts in stove time at Beast. Call ahead to make sure she’ll be around when you visit.

GO: 5425 NE 30th Ave., 503-841-6968beastpdx.com6 and 8:45 pm seatings Wednesday-Saturday; 10 am, 11:30 am and 1 pm brunch seatings, 7 pm dinner Sunday

Michael C. Zusman

Michael C. Zusman loves to eat, travel and write about his experiences. He enjoys cured meat, stinky cheese and club soda with bitters, preferably Peychaud's. He's been contributing to Willamette Week since 2011.

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