Cocktails are king at Expatriate, but the food certainly isn't far from regicide. And with menu names calling out culinary superstars James Beard and David Chang, it damn well better be great grub.

Pan-Asian in décor and flavor, Expatriate does bring to mind the expat bar scene in places like Bangkok and Hong Kong: dark, lots of wood, beautiful people and a little too pricey for the locals. A pair of pork buns that say Momo-fuk-u to David Chang ($13) are the perfect savory accompaniment to a cocktail list that skews sweet without being syrupy. The Chinese broccoli ($12) is accompanied by toast and an Italian-style ragout that's a little weird at first, but pairs nicely by mixing soft and crunchy. Don't be fooled by the "drinking snacks" label on the menu. One item from each section is more than enough to stuff two diners, and you're still likely to end up with leftovers.

Pro tip: The drinks cost more than most of the food here, making this first and foremost a cocktail joint. If you're not exactly sure what you want, go for the Diplomatic Pouch, a reverse bartender's choice in which you'll be asked what kind of booze you like and the perfect tipple for your tongue will be custom-made (price varies).

GO: 5424 NE 30th Ave., 503-867-5309, expatriatepdx.com, 5 pm-midnight daily