The downtown Portland outpost of San Francisco celebrity chef Chris Cosentino has a menu that zigs and zags, but the sweet spot is the meaty stuff. The best item in the lot is a 28-day-aged, 4-pound "pin bone steak" ($120). It resembles a steroidal porterhouse sliced from the bone à la Brooklyn's Peter Luger and served on a slab of wood with seasonal vegetables and bone marrow dip.

GO: 830 SW 6th Ave., 503-412-1800,, 7-10 am and 11:30 am-11 pm Monday-Thursday, 7 am-10 am and 11:30 am-11:30 pm Friday, 8 am-11:30 pm and 8 am-11 pm Sunday. $$$-$$$$.