Owner John Taboada calls it à la carte dining. In the Spanish province of Navarre, plates that can be combined to make a meal are known as tapas. Either way, the small bites here end up tasting bigger than the portions. The pan-European menu offers everything from cod cakes ($11) salted in-house and dried overnight to preserve the fish's flakiness to duck confit with spiced plum coulis ($14). Enjoy with a wine from Navarre's lengthy list, like a softly fruity rioja ($8).

GO: 10 NE 28th Ave., 503-232-3555, navarreportland.com, 4:30-10:30 pm Monday-Friday, 9:30 am-11:30 pm Saturday, 9:30 am-10:30 pm Sunday. $$$.