The soul of this restaurant is executive chef Rob Baki's 10,000-year-old cooking technology—a brick, wood-fired oven. It's a reminder that getting back to the basics is what's done best here, both with big meat dishes and smaller appetizers, like the Ludd Board ($24), the contents of which vary with the season but always include housemade charcuterie and cheese from Briar Rose Creamery. If you can rally a crowd, spring for the Family Feast at $60 a person. The chef creates it on the spot.

GO: 3925 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 503-288-6900,, 5-10 pm daily