The soul of this restaurant is executive chef Rob Baki's 10,000-year-old cooking technology—a brick, wood-fired oven. It's a reminder that getting back to the basics is what's done best here, both with big meat dishes and smaller appetizers, like the Ludd Board ($24), the contents of which vary with the season but always include housemade charcuterie and cheese from Briar Rose Creamery. If you can rally a crowd, spring for the Family Feast at $60 a person. The chef creates it on the spot.
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