The gorgeous lime-laden ceviche that earned Peruvian chef Jose Luis de Cossio's tiny Corbett restaurant the top spot in our 2016-17 Restaurant Guide has been replaced with an ever-rotating assortment of seasonal vegan options, but its menu is inspiring as ever. On our visit, creative dishes like a beet-crusted empanada ($11.50) filled with squash and dried fruit offered earthy complexity, and the beautifully layered potato, pear and cauliflower causa ($12.50) could convert the most die-hard carnivores.

GO: 4237 SW Corbett Ave., 503-403-6186, paichepdx.com, 11 am-3 pm Friday-Sunday. $.