Pure Spice

(Hilary Sander)
By Matthew Korfhage

At Pure Spice, a little piece of heaven costs $2.85. At the Division Street Chinese spot's dim sum brunch, that's the price of delicate hand-pulled rice noodles as layered as filo, doused in vinegar-savory sauce and folded in with a garden of barbecue pork or shrimp or simple chives and scallions. It is also the price of three ha gow dumplings—delicate rice-noodle purses bursting with shrimp and chive flavor—and of four impossibly pork-packed pockets of shumai. In fact, everything on the front side of the menu costs $2.85, all of it solid. Split 10 trays as a pair, and you might never leave.

GO: 2446 SE 87th Ave., Suite 101, 503-772-1808, purespicerestaurant.com, 9:30 am-9:30 pm daily

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Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.

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