Sammich

(Emily Joan Greene)
By WW Contributor

Sammich is all about the house giardiniera. That spicy, pickled mix of chilies, pepper, celery and carrots is the flavor of Chicago, adding crunch, spice and acid to everything from the Cubbie Cubano ($12) to the Italian beef ($12). The jus—pronounced "juice," in open defiance of the French—is deep, rich, fresh daily and well-seasoned, a balance difficult to achieve and especially to maintain.

GO: 2137 E Burnside St., 503-477-4393, sammichrestaurants.com, 11 am-9 pm daily.

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