Spring

(Liz Allan)
By Matthew Korfhage

Hidden away above a ramshackle G-Mart, accessible via some easily missable backstairs, bare-bones Spring feels like a secret—an exclusive club that requires a password to enter. The novelty would be reason enough to come. But then you tuck into a steaming bowl of its sujebi (hand-torn noodle soup, $10.95) and realize it's also some of the finest Korean food anywhere near Portland, and well worth the trek. Spring also offers the cleanest-tasting sundubu broth we've encountered. It's practically spa food, pure and wholly vegetable-based—you can almost feel your skin clearing while you eat it.

GO: 3975 SW 114th Ave., Beaverton, 503-641-3670, 11 am-9 pm Tuesday-Sunday. $.

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Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.

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