Tortilleria y Tienda de Leon

(Joe Riedl)

For nearly 20 years, Tienda de Leon has been one of Portland's most essential excursions. Located at the exact border of Portland and Gresham, the de Leon family taqueria and store sells their corn tortillas and heavenly guisados—Mexican meat stews bubbling in little cauldrons in the deli case. The carnitas ($10.99) are some of the most consistently wonderful in town, the chipotle-spiked tinga chicken earthy, the beef birria de res a school in depth and heat.

GO: 16223 NE Glisan St., 503-255-4356, salsaslocas.com, 9 am-8 pm Monday-Saturday, 9 am-7 pm Sunday

Matthew Korfhage

Matthew Korfhage has lived in St. Louis, Chicago, Munich and Bordeaux, but comes from Portland, where he makes guides to the city and writes about food, booze and books. He likes the Oxford comma but can't use it in the newspaper.

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