1. St. Jack

1610 NW 23rd Ave., 503-360-1281, stjackpdx.com.

St. Jack isn't for the light of heart, or the faint of stomach. This bouchon-inspired bistro serves Portland's truest French food, in all its rich, fatty glory. As might be expected, its special takeout menu draws from the more casual barside menu, which includes a great burger and fried chicken sandwich, but you can still get the magnificent steak frites, available with a choice of 46-ounce rib-eye for $85 or 8-ounce bavette for $26.

How to order: By phone.

(Thomas Teal)
(Thomas Teal)

2. Nodoguro

2832 SE Belmont St., nodoguropdx.com.

Nodoguro's omakase menu is a thing of practiced beauty, with a delicate yet bold Japanese-inspired tasting program. Of course, that "hardcore sushi experience" is on hold for the time being, but you can still taste the craft in the bento boxes chef Ryan Roadhouse has made available for curbside pickup. In addition, customers can also order cleaners, hand soaps and sanitizers from co-owner Elena Roadhouse's Eleusis brand.

How to order: Shopify.

(Bridget Baker)
(Bridget Baker)

3. Lardo

1205 SW Washington St., 503-241-2490, 1212 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-234-7786, lardosandwiches.com.

Lardo is one of Portland's most beloved pig-pushers. The sandwiches aren't as straightforwardly American as you might think: There's a pork meatball banh mi, but the standout is the Korean pork shoulder, which is perfectly tender and doesn't hammer you over the head with seasoning.

How to order: Caviar, ChowNow.

(Thomas Teal)
(Thomas Teal)

4. Cully Central

4579 NE Cully Blvd., 503-206-8911, khaoniew.square.site.

Once home to a seedy strip club, Cully Central brought new energy to a bleak stretch of Northeast Cully Boulevard. There is a delicious lineup of Lao dishes, like a crispy rice salad seasoned with fresh herbs and lime juice served with green leaf lettuce to transport that blend to your mouth. It's a solid beer bar with 20 handles boasting favorites from Breakside and pFriem—and yes, it does growler fills.

How to order: See website.

The Old Deuteronomy. IMAGE: Sam Gehrke.
The Old Deuteronomy. IMAGE: Sam Gehrke.

5. Malka

4546 SE Division St., 503-984-1580, malkapdx.com.

The long-awaited Malka is the restaurant version of Mr. Toad's Wild Ride. Each dish is a madcap mélange of a dozen or more ingredients that, on paper, couldn't possibly work together, yet invariably do. While its visually engrossing dining room is shut down, many of chef Jessie Aron's highlight meals are still available for takeout, including creative rice bowls and entrees like the Noodle Incident, a zany take on mac and cheese flavored with sake and Ethiopian berbere.

How to order: By phone.