1. Oma’s Takeaway (aka Gado Gado)
3004 E Burnside St., 503-206-8778, gadogadopdx.com.
Like other restaurants that have abruptly pivoted to new models in the wake of the coronavirus, the co-owners of Gado Gado briefly considered selling family-style meals that can be completed at home but decided to return to what they knew best: fragrant, fiery and rib-sticking Asian American mashups, now served under the name Oma's Takeaway. One item is a plate of green beans and brisket, which is brined in brown sugar, salt, Shaoxing wine and water, then smoked for eight to 10 hours, and topped with a savory fried egg.
How to order: See website for pickup, or order delivery through Caviar.
2. Casa Zoraya
841 N Lombard St., 503-384-2455, casazorayapdx.com.
Located next to Interstate 5 between a cheapo cellphone shop and a leather daddy bar, Casa Zoraya seems the last place one would expect an Andina alum to succeed with an unfussy Peruvian restaurant she runs with her family. A colorful plate of ceviche ($23), which bursts to life with contrasting flavors of fresh lime juice, crispy corn and soft Alaskan halibut, is generally the best place to start, but a vegetable dish made with one of Zoraya's signature ají chile sauces should be an auto-include as well.
3. Flying Fish Co.
3004 E Burnside St., 971-806-6747, flyingfishportland.com.
For a city bisected by a river, Portland has a shocking scarcity of fish sandwiches on its restaurant menus. Stop searching, and head straight for Flying Fish Company. The 6-ounce fillet of steelhead is prepped simply and topped with a green confetti of slightly sweet cabbage and earthy kale doused in a piquant marinade of lime, jalapeño, cilantro and Arbequina olive oil. The dressing's citrus is so bright, it will leave you vibrating like the first sunny, 70-degree day in spring.
4. Hat Yai
1605 NE Killingsworth St., 503-764-9701, hatyaipdx.com.
It's back! After shuttering early in the quarantine, Earl Ninsom has brought back his renowned Thai fried chicken for takeout and delivery. With a deep red hue and rich blend of sweet and spicy flavors like cinnamon, red chile and cumin, the house curry is the star of the show—outstanding as both a dipping sauce for the fluffy roti and the crispy, lightly sugared fried chicken.
How to order: Call restaurant or see website.
5. Mi Mero Mole
32 NW 5th Ave., 971-266-8575, mmmtacospdx.com.
Owner Nick Zukin (an occasional WW contributor) is devoted to very specific, regional Mexican food traditions—namely guisados (stewed or stir-fried fillings), moles and fresh corn tortillas. The menu is slightly more limited than usual right now, but it's still possible to choose your own adventure by picking a guisado and pairing it with a taco, quesadilla or burrito.
How to order: Available for delivery through multiple third-party apps, or call for pickup.