Though situated just steps from the Beaverton Central MAX Station, the suburb’s first-ever food cart pod is obscured from immediate view by City Hall—so once you smell the fried food and spot the shiny, candy-colored trucks, it feels like you’ve stumbled across a secret carnival.

In many ways, BG Food Cartel is like an amusement park where the grub is the focus. There’s an assortment of indulgent midway-ready creations, including breakfast sandwiches wrapped in waffles from Smaaken, Thanksgiving dinner stuffed into a crepe at Oh My Crepe, and Fry Bar, a cart devoted entirely to french fries, which come loaded with everything from a three-bean cheddar jack chili to roasted marshmallows drizzled in chocolate.

With spots for more than 30 carts, the ever-shifting roster promises variety—pizza, wings, ramen, empanadas, even a healthy rivalry between two pitmasters.

The point, then, is not to limit yourself, but team up and tackle several carts at once. With your collection of cardboard clamshells and to-go bags in hand, find a seat at the patio bar—unlike many pods that simply spring up on an empty parking lot, this one was designed with care, which means there is a parklet carpeted in green turf, a fire pit and an indoor-outdoor bar.

If you’re not entertained by the toddlers attempting cartwheels on the fake grass, the bartender will provide a show, taking orders with the volume and charisma of an auction ringman. His closing-time notice bellowed into the crowd—”Last call for al-keee-hollll!”—drew a round of applause on our most recent visit. It’s probably the only time you’ll ever witness bargoers cheer being cut off. ANDI PREWITT.

4250 SW Rose Biggi Ave., Beaverton, 503-605-9163, bgfoodcartel.com. 10 am-8 pm Monday-Thursday, 10 am-9 pm Friday-Saturday, 10 am-7 pm Sunday.