Like most traumas, the COVID-19 pandemic has forced America to pass through the five stages of grief. Two months into the ordeal, many of us are finally ready to give up on bargaining ("Maybe if I clean the garage or bake the perfect chocolate chip cookies, it will go away!") and move on to depression and then acceptance. In this case, that means accepting you'll never make the perfect chocolate chip cookie—but the Chocolate Peanut Butter Bomb from PDX Cookie Co will certainly help ease you into the revelation that cookie baking is best left to the professionals.

There's not a crispy edge or a toasty underbelly in sight among the offerings at this Montavilla bakery—it's as if your stoner friend who worked at Subway and constantly snacked on the half-frozen cookie batter opened a Coldstone Creamery franchise. The Chocolate Peanut Butter Bomb, in particular, is less an homage to Tollhouse than a commercially sanctioned feast on al dente cookie dough. A generous glob of housemade whipped peanut butter holds the two cookies together, and it only takes one bite to understand where the $4 price tag comes from.

A purist might bristle at the idea of calling this pricy pile of goo a "real" chocolate chip cookie, but weird times call for weird takes on the classics. It'll take severe couchlock to plow through the whole thing in one sitting, but now's a better time than any to indulge in the few good things left in the world. Recommended.

EAT: PDX Cookie Co, 7919 SE Stark St., Order online Monday-Thursday, or stop by the storefront 10 am-4 pm Friday-Sunday or until sold out.