The Commons is in a malt phase. A few years ago, brewmaster Mike Wright joked to us that his beers, like Urban Farmhouse saison, were "yeast-forward."

But a recent visit to the brewery's large space on Southeast Belmont Street found that the Commons is exploring other, more basic classic European styles, like an English mild and German Pilsner.

My favorite was the Helles, a restrained, balanced version mostly notable for its freshness. It offered all the bready warmth of a fresh-baked Bavarian lye roll. The Commons used only noble hops and German Pilsner malt in this beer, giving it round edges all around. Wright and his team have always been good with subtle flavors and tight focus, and it really shows with this lager. Recommended.