Beer Review: Parkway Pilsner (Crux Fermentation Project)

This squeaky-clean beer made with true Pilsner malt and whole cone hops.

By Martin Cizmar

I've spent a lot of money—a couple hundred bucks, at least—on Crux Fermentation Project beer. Until recently, it all was in vain.

The Bend upstart from former Deschutes brewmaster Larry Sidor has fancy wax-dipped bottles and an impressive pedigree, but I've found their barrel-aged brews to be crushing walls of funk and their pale ales to be catty. Well,

I've finally found a Crux beer to love, and it's a Pilsner. Sidor has been brewing Pilsners for 35-plus years, and it shows in this squeaky-clean beer made with true Pilsner malt and whole cone hops. The hops he chose give it a noble air—imported Czech Saaz and one of its descendants, Sterling, grown in the Willamette Valley.

The beer is refreshing, a little bready with light herbal notes, and has a touch of lemon. It's simple and perfect.

Now, it just needs some fancy packaging. Recommended.

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