The Knock Back

By AP Kryza

When Alberta's Knock Back opened to confusion two years ago, one prominent Portland barman incorrectly dubbed it a dive bar, something ridiculous for a place that hadn't even had time to absorb the stains of blood and liquor that defines the nation's best. No, consider the Knock Back a dive-themed cocktailery. Sure, there's the pair of Last Thursday-perfect patios outside—one covered for winter smoke, one with a fire pit, both facing the requisite photo booth—the taxidermy and a Polar Bear du Jour ($6) that generously plops slushy margaritas in the glass (the curated boilermakers, too, stand out). But no self-respecting dive bar would serve up beautifully mixed cocktails like the whiskey-drenched and fruity Rye Thai ($9) or a daily house punch, the pinnacle of the twirled-mustache barkeep set. The balance between artsy and fartsy works. It has surly service, but the surliness begets complex drinks. It's too fancy to be a dive, too unpretentious to sit among spots where cocktails come with a history lesson. As such, it's kind of fantastic.

HAPPY HOUR: 4-6 pm daily. Food specials, $1 off drafts, wells, boilermakers and various bottles.

ENTERTAINMENT: Fire pit, photo booth, patio.

2315 NE Alberta St., 503-284-4090, theknockback.com. 4 pm-12:30 am Monday-Wednesday, 4 pm-2:30 am Thursday-Saturday, 4 pm-midnight Sunday.

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