Cannon Beach Distillery doesn't distribute outside its own shop, a tasting room that looks like the lobby of a youth hostel. It also makes some of the most distinctive and accomplished spirits in Oregon—including my favorite American-distilled rum, the aged and smoky Donlon Shanks.

You can count on one hand the distilleries in Oregon that make every spirit from scratch, as Cannon Beach does—almost all locally branded gin started as neutral grain spirits made across the country before being redistilled and infused with botanicals here. But Cannon Beach's the Pharmacist is scratch-distilled from sugar cane into a singular, subtle take on Old Tom gin, a sweeter style recently revived in America by Ransom Spirits.

Ransom's is woody and aged, but the licorice sweetness in the clear Pharmacist creates surprising depth. That licorice root comes on like the shadow cast by dominant notes of juniper and…oh shit, is that cedar? Wow. Make me a Negroni with this immediately, or serve it with lemon peel, bitters and a sugar cube as gin's loud answer to an Old Fashioned. Recommended.