If the idea of a "family-friendly bar" sounds like an oxymoron, you probably haven't spent enough daylight hours in the many local watering holes that bookend the city's residential districts. It might seem a vexing concept for the childless who just want to drink in peace. But a neighborhood bar where Mom and Dad can plunk down in a booth and enjoy a pint or two while Braxton and Jaycee run amok is deeply appealing to the boom of young families that have overtaken formerly scumbaggy environs of Portland.

While high-end spots Dame, Beast and Expatriate have turned the intersection of Northeast Killingsworth Street and 30th Avenue into a culinary hot spot, those restaurants offer little solace for frazzled parents who need to get the hell out of the house for a few hours.

(Christine Dong)
(Christine Dong)

Enter Jinx (3000 NE Killingsworth St., 503-288-8075). Located in the former Cup & Saucer Cafe space next to Expatriate, it's a bright, lived-in hodgepodge of luck-themed branding, subtle nods to counterculture and just enough old-school diner flourishes left over from the prior tenant to ground the place with authenticity. Considering the team behind it—which includes a founding partner of Florida Room as well as a brother-sister duo of restaurant veterans—no one expected Jinx to be fancy or fussy, and the fact that they've followed through with a perfectly mellow place to drink $3 Miller High Life tallboys while the Buzzcocks and Suicide play on the stereo makes it all the more likable.

(Christine Dong)
(Christine Dong)

Between the clutch of newish pinball machines and a modestly priced kids' menu, there's plenty to keep your offspring occupied. A crustless grilled cheese with fries is only $6, while a juicy, gently charred adult burger will run you $13. The appetizer menu is a bizarre mix of highbrow delights with lowbrow presentations, like deviled egg tartine ($6), tempura avocado ($9) and a plate of cognac-soaked dates stuffed with feta and wrapped in bacon ($6). The entrees are similarly high-minded, with the chicken roulade ($15) serving as a classic cold-weather comfort dish, but you'll do just fine with the burger and a handful of appetizers.

Happy hour and a proper cocktail list are still forthcoming, as well as brunch service. But if the oversized Toronto we got for just $7 on a recent visit is any indicator, expect stiff drinks at gracious prices.

(Christine Dong)
(Christine Dong)

Hell, even the taps, which included mostly mainstream craft options, pour for a mere $5. Barflies who came of drinking age at the Know or Yamhill Pub will always scoff at prices like that, but no responsible adult has any business bringing a kid into those places. Growing up and growing old are two different things, but Jinx is happy to accommodate folks at just about any point in that process.