Heathen

Feral Public House, 1109 Washington St., Vancouver, Wash., 360-836-5255, heathenbrewing.com. 11:30 am-10 pm Monday-Wednesday, 11:30 am-2 am Thursday-Saturday, 10 am-9 pm Sunday.

Heathen Brewing's new downtown taphouse feels like the warrior spirit of Old Vancouver, but with better beer. At the Feral Public House, there's a beer named Promiscuous Blonde, a Mojito Sour that indeed tastes like a mojito, a logo of a tribal mask with its tongue sticking out, and a bartender in the classic uniform of both AC/DC and rebel-country fans—black shirt, blue jeans and a cheery lack of fucks to give. Among the unholy number of taps—30, plus a cask—seven were Heathen IPAs on our visit. Our bartender shrugged happily when we asked the difference between two of them: "They're kind of the same," she said, and indeed it was like tasting recipe tweaks side by side. Well, for the record, I liked the Evo best, an IPA whose recipe was apparently improvised after it came out funny. And a dry stout was a fine example of the form. Other taps included Commons, Logsdon and a Brother Thelonious from North Coast, and two apiece devoted to wine and kombucha. Still, the majority of the ball-capped clientele seemed to be pulling Pilsners and blondes.

Drink This: Want classic? Pick up the solidly dry Dubhgall Stout. But if it's what you're looking for, that Mojito Sour will get you into trouble.

Willamette Week