670 N Russell St., 971-271-8151, labrewatory.com. 3-9 pm Wednesday-Thursday, 3-10 pm Friday-Saturday, 1-6 pm Sunday.

Brewing-equipment maker Portland Kettleworks bills its new science-themed brewpub as a "craft beer lab," a place for experiments by guest brewers who are, not coincidentally, potential clients. But brewer-in-residence Charlie Johnson has been setting the tone in the first months since the November opening, with some true winners, including a Sans Nibs Saison that's light, floral, subtle and damn-near perfect—better, indeed, than the after-nibs product that included some chocolate. A terrific Far & Sure Smoked Scotch Ale included actual peat and tasted a bit like Scotch whisky. A Billy the Squid cherry squid-ink gose, meanwhile, was an intense experience loved by some, shunned by others. But even if the experiments don't turn out—like a grassy, catty IPA made with leftover hops from countless fields—know that failure is part of science. Soon, Johnson plans to let customers taste a beer at various stages in the process of brewing, kind of like watching a child grow up. "So strong! Such a good little stout."

(Maya Setton)
(Maya Setton)

Drink This: If you're drinking it here, it hasn't been drunk before. Order the thing that looks craziest.