1900 A St., Forest Grove, 896-6057. 2-10 pm Tuesday, 4-10 pm Wednesday-Saturday.

The music-festival-in-the-forest atmosphere of Waltz Brewing definitely fits in Forest Grove, a town whose flannel-wearing loggers have largely been supplanted by flannel-wearing liberal arts majors. At Waltz, one could imagine the Band drummer Levon Helm cruising ladies in the corner with a guitar and a suitcase of stories about the original Woodstock. Those who are averse to plastic folding chairs, mismatched furniture and a drafty garage of a tasting room might feel out of place. But if you can deal with such adversity, you'll find a beer list that includes a broad selection of guest taps, a diverse list of beers made in house, and one of the best low-alcohol beers I've tasted, the Little Bitter, which is only 3.8 percent ABV, meaning you can always stay for one more.

Drink This: The Little Bitter packs surprising depth and nuance for a low-alcohol, low-gravity beer.