5202 N Albina Ave., 503 209-2091, pennsardinpdx.com. Closed Tuesday-Thursday.

When this chic little natural wine nook opened in the Sweedeedee space after dark, Sardine Head tried to describe itself as a "wine dive bar." It's way too clean and the snacks way too specific (Breton-inspired fare) and fancy (items like shell-on langoustine, $15) to pass for that, but it is significantly more laid back than the impressive spectrum of white, yellow, orange and red natural wines.