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3813 SE Gladstone St., 503-775-1537, gladstonepizza.com. Dinner nightly.
Gladstone Street Pizza's temperament is split evenly between the Buckman neighborhood's bespoke parlors and a cut-rate pepperoni mill. The pizzeria crafts simply topped, thin-crusted paragons such as Italian sausage, sweet onion and arugula-topped Tri-Colour, and the house special covered in chevre, basil and Mama Lil's peppers. Twelve-inch pizzas start at $13, 18-inch at $19. $-$$.