J West Bottle Shop Unites Beer, Wine and Cider Lovers Under One Lents Neighborhood Roof

“That happens a lot,” Jeff Welton says with a smile.

It’s Thursday evening at J West Bottle Shop and one of his regulars has just strolled in with a homemade freshly baked Detroit-style pizza in its signature deep baking pan. Before long, Welton is chowing down on a slice along with the other patrons lining the bar. It’s a casual moment for the regulars but might be striking to a first-timer at J West, the Lents beer bar and bottle shop that West has been running since 2019. This kind of communal, easygoing neighborhood vibe is just one reason why J West is quietly one of Portland’s worthy watering holes.

Referring to a nickname Welton had in his younger years, J West Bottle Shop started as Lents Draft and Bottle before briefly closing in September 2024 while Welton figured out the logistics of assuming sole ownership. This meant buying out his original business partner in an amicable split and rebranding it, mostly just by changing the name. When he reopened as J West a couple of months later, it was like the cozy little Foster Road bar had never missed a beat. The regulars who had come to rely on the bar for its small but mighty and always thoughtfully curated collection of craft beer, wine and cider quickly returned. None of this may seem especially groundbreaking in Portland’s diverse bar scene, yet J West’s location in an often overlooked part of town is part of what makes it a gem.

“There aren’t a ton of options for craft beer and wine east of 82nd,” Welton says. “I’m excited to have the space where people can go to feel at home and find something they like.”

What also sets J West apart from Portland’s myriad beer and wine bars is the inclusive approach Welton takes to the beverages he stocks. From the beginning, his goal was to “end segregated drinking” that exists in many similar bars by catering as much to people who love IPA as to their wine-loving spouses or cider-centric siblings. This is reflected on the tap list as well as the shelf, where you will often see the latest hoppy beer from the likes of Hood River’s pFriem or Vancouver’s Trap Door alongside coveted German lagers and Belgian saisons, and unexpectedly excellent wine that can range from Oregon pinot noir to German gewürztraminer, always for $10 a glass. Welton even keeps a rotating glass of port and vermouth on the menu.

The publican’s deep knowledge of wine and beer accumulated from decades spent working in Portland’s bar and restaurant scene shines through in a way that is geeky but unpretentious. Oftentimes, the tap list or bottle offerings are an extension of Welton’s own interests and favorites, giving everything a personal touch.

“As many Portlanders do, I love my hoppy beers! IPA and the newer versions of West Coast—hoppy—Pils always top my list. I am also a traditionalist and love to carry some classics. My wine experience is pretty broad, which allows us to feature wines from great producers worldwide. My heart does lie in Northern Italy, and I love nebbiolo and barbera,” Welton says.

It wouldn’t be fair to call J West a dive, but the décor is no frills to the core, with a couple of maps and the handwritten tap list. Shelves and coolers are adorned with Underberg gear that shows how much of the cult German digestif beloved by beer nerds is consumed here. It feels almost akin to a home bar as if you were just hanging out with Welton and some buddies, fitting since most people who come here simply call it Jeff’s.

These days, J West doesn’t host trivia or game nights or any of the other tactics so many bars and breweries are forced to use to pull in fair-weather customers on slow nights. This is fine considering the intimacy of the space and the fact that you are likely to strike up a conversation with the person sitting closest to you. Welton’s patrons are friendly and open to chatting. They may even bring in a home-cooked dish to share with the bar.

“J West serves Lents a cheerful spot with a nice selection, and the neighborhood seems to agree,” Welton observes in his typically modest fashion.

It’s easy to miss the unassuming storefront when speeding down Foster Road, yet once you belly up to the striking wood bar with its classic golden pub taps, you quickly see what makes J West so special. Between the community-minded approach, conversational quality of its owner, who is often holding court behind the bar, and something-for-everyone tap list and bottle section, J West embodies the spirit of old Portland in the heart of Lents.

DRINK: J West Bottle Shop, 8530 SE Foster Road, 503-720-6693, jwestbottleshop.com. 3:30–11 pm Tuesday–Sunday.