Goose Hollow

Rose City Till I Die

Built on the site of a filled-in creek, Goose Hollow remains green and relatively serene, except when the Timbers play. The ass-busting hills and 100-year-old trees at its west end give way to crisscrossing MAX tracks and Old Portland dive bars as you roll downhill. Here, century-old brick apartments, the posh Hotel deLuxe and Portland's oldest theater share space with Timbros and PSU students at the Hotlips Pizza outpost. Often ignored by everyone who doesn't live here, the Hollow feels sleepy after nightfall, except for the traffic under the notorious Vista Avenue Viaduct and ambulances wailing down Burnside.


Coco Donuts, 709 SW 17th Ave.

Driftwood Room, 729 SW 15th Ave.

Scrap PDX, 1736 SW Alder St.

Artists Repertory Theatre, 1515 SW Morrison St.


Providence Park

1844 SW Morrison St., 503-553-5400,

What citizens call this stadium is a surprisingly accurate indicator of how long they've lived in Portland. Many know it as Civic Stadium (1966-2000), then it was PGE Park (2000-2010), followed by the least popular Jeld-Wen Field era (2011-2014). It's been Providence Park since 2014, and this one seems like it'll stick. Whatever you want to call it, this park is home to the reigning Major League Soccer champions the Portland Timbers, as well as the National Women's Soccer League's Portland Thorns and the Portland State Vikings football team. One thing has stuck through every name change: a feral cat colony that has lived in the stadium since 1985.


Coco Donuts

709 SW 17th Ave., 503-360-1456, Breakfast-late afternoon Monday-Saturday.

Set the bacon and black pepper aside: Coco Donuts is the best of Portland's "fancy" doughnut shops. By keeping it comparatively simple, it nails small-batch, classic doughnuts—cake, glazed, buttermilk and the like—with slightly upscale toppings like lavender glaze. Neighboring a busy MAX stop and Providence Park, this location is best for grab-'n'-go on weekdays. $.

Little Red's Bakeshop and Cafe

1401 SW Yamhill St., 503-706-8748, Breakfast and lunch Tuesday-Sunday.

Michigan baker Jenni Welliver's Little Red's popped up seemingly overnight, filling the airy, one-room shop with a pastry spread so lush that customers opening their mouths to complain should fill them with almond croissants. You can see, and smell, bakers lovingly rolling croissants from any of three tiny tables. $.


1628 SW Jefferson St., 971-271-7656, Lunch and dinner Wednesday-Sunday.

Vtopia Cheese Shop & Deli makes the best case we've tasted for vegan cheese. Cheesemaker Imber Lingard's line includes a tasty aged white cheddar and a purplish-brown fermented black garlic wedge that's aged for two months. You should definitely bring the latter to your next vegan-heavy party. $.


Driftwood Room

729 SW 15th Ave., 503-820-2076,

Once a withering lounge attached to a de facto extended care facility, the Driftwood Room has been reborn as a windowless jewel box of luxe tippling that lures a cosmopolitan array of visiting guests, West Hills dowagers and genteel bohemians sniffing happy-hour bargains like half-price Champagne cocktails alongside flights of Manhattans. Imagine…a world of tiny Manhattans in dim light.

Goose Hollow Inn

1927 SW Jefferson St., 503-228-7010,

Founded by Bud Clark in 1967, Goose Hollow Inn feels like both a museum for Portland's former mayor—the iconic "Expose Yourself to Art" poster of Clark flashing the Kvinneakt statue downtown hangs on the wall—and an extension of him. Stop in to pregame for a Timbers match and taste one of the finest Reubens in town.


Hammer + Vine

2190 W Burnside St., 503-224-9678,

Hammer + Vine carries every cute glass terrarium globe, succulent, fern and carnivorous plant you've ever seen in any minimalist coffee shop window or hip girl's Instagram. The tiny 600-square-foot shop also carries handmade treats like natural deodorant, rock pendants or pretty much anything that looks its most natural photographed against a paper white background.

The Far Post Soccer Supply

825 SW 14th Ave., 503-295-6875,

An iconic "soccer store for soccer people" since 1993, the Far Post packs itself tight with a wide selection of balls, boots, jerseys, replica apparel and, of course, Timbers gear. It also has a killer sale section and plays live and classic games on TVs in the store.

Scrap PDX

1736 SW Alder St., 503-294-0769,

Think of Scrap PDX as the Goodwill that doesn't require you to dig through aisles for hours to find the best nostalgic and lightly used stuff. Founded in 1998 by teachers, this creative reuse store gets art supply donations and resells them at a 60 to 75 percent discount. The store puts it all up front, from encyclopedias to holiday decorations to old Portland maps.

Portland Gear

627 SW 19th Ave., 503-437-4439,

In 2014, the 25-year-old Portland native Marcus Harvey designed a simple shirt with a block letter P with the outline of Oregon making up the hole, selling thousands online. In March, he opened a brick-and-mortar store that carries the P logo on everything, from bottle openers to baseball caps.


Artists Repertory Theatre

1515 SW Morrison St., 503-241-1278,

Portland's longest-running theater company is unexpectedly tucked among dive bars on West Burnside and upscale car dealerships. The main stage upstairs hosts full runs of classics like The Miracle Worker and crowd pleasers, like ART's risqué holiday offerings. Top actors, a discerning leader in artistic director Dámaso Rodriguez and programming that's not afraid to jump genres are among the reasons that it's still going strong.

Vibrant Studios

1532 SW Jefferson St., 971-266-3212,

Vibrant is equal parts badass yoga studio, arts venue and speakeasy. During the week, movement classes like yoga for cyclists, Latin dance and tai chi fill the studio, and the recurring Sunday Salons are community dinners cooked and hosted by owner Sophia Lippert.

Washington Park

4001 SW Canyon Road.

The second of two gigantic park complexes in West Portland, where Forest Park (see page 61) is a sprawling wilderness, Washington Park is a manicured complex of tourist destinations (the Oregon Zoo, International Rose Test Garden, Japanese Garden, Pittock Mansion), monuments (Vietnam Veterans of Oregon Memorial) and good old-fashioned parks (Hoyt Arboretum).