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In the strictly codified realm of French cuisine, court bouillon—which literally translates to short broth—means a quickly cooked broth of water mixed with acidic ingredients like wine or vinegar and flavored with a few aromatic vegetables and herbs most often used to poach fish. But, much like the seemingly French language spoken in Louisiana, the food from the former colony’s mother country evolved into something completely different.
While it’s still used to poach fish, Louisiana-style court bouillon (pronounced KOO-bee-YAW) is more like a thick tomato stew. If the cook leans Cajun, it may be more brown and thin from the dark roux favored in Acadiana. Those not deeply immersed in the minutiae of the state’s cuisine would be hard pressed to distinguish court bouillon from the sauces Creole or piquant. They’re both flavored, just like court bouillon, with onion, celery, bell pepper, and tomatoes. But Louisiana’s classic foods, like Italy’s, came out of countless home kitchens with influences from the French, Spanish, African, German, Italian and other immigrant populations, as well as Native Americans.
One of our boys and his family have lived in New Orleans nearly 20 years, and my version reflects what I’ve eaten during our visits to Louisiana. Instead of catfish or any of the many types of bayou or gulf fish, I use salmon I ate growing up in the Northwest. The rich flavor of our iconic native fish holds up nicely to the zesty tang of the Bayou State’s cross-cultural court bouillon.
Recipe
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons flour
1 medium onion, chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 green bell pepper, chopped
1 28 oz can crushed tomatoes
2 cups water or stock
½ teaspoon kosher-style sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon dried thyme
Cayenne or similar red pepper to taste
1–2 lbs salmon filets, skin on and cut into pieces about 2–3 inches long
Note: A Cajun-style spice blend can be used instead of the red pepper, but taste the sauce before adding any salt.
First make the roux by combining the olive oil and flour in a stockpot or skillet and cook, stirring often, over medium heat until it begins to color. Watch it closely and continue to stir until it starts to go from golden to brown. Cajun-style roux is very dark, the color of dark chocolate, but a lighter roux, more like peanut butter, is fine. Be careful not to let it burn, and if it does, discard the roux and start over. (When I make gumbo or anything with a very dark roux, I cook the oil and flour in the oven for about 2 hours at 350F to avoid burning.)
Add the onion, celery, and pepper to the roux and cook until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic, cook for another minute, then add the tomatoes and water. Add the salt, pepper, thyme, and cayenne, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook uncovered for about 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Place the salmon skin side up into the sauce, pressing down so it’s just barely submerged. Cook gently for about 10 minutes or until the salmon flakes easily. Serve over rice with Crystal hot sauce on the side.
