The Paper Bridge Is Offering a 10-Dish Iguana Feast in April

There was a time not so long ago that Portland enjoyed a reputation for bold culinary initiative and intense creativity. In recent years, however, the trend has been to safe, simple ideas with mass appeal; burgers, pizza, fried chicken, rinse and repeat.

The Paper Bridge, the inner Southeast restaurant specializing in North Vietnamese food, is ready to subvert the dominant paradigm. In April (and the last few days of March, beginning March 27), Chef/co-owner Carlo Reinardy and crew will summon the halcyon days of Portland dining with its latest monthly special: iguana.

Reinardy and his wife and business partner, Quynh Nguyen, have already vaulted The Paper Bridge to the top tier of local establishments with its long, deep, and interesting food and drink menus. It has captured the attention of The New York Times as well as local food enthusiasts. The below-grade space buzzes with energy every night.

Monthly specials, often including a platter of many variations on a theme, served in sufficient quantities to feed a table of three or four, have upped their game considerably. The “Chicken Nine Ways Platter” (Mẹt Gà 9 Món) served in March 2025 was a memorably delicious (and voluminous) repast, and quite the labor-intensive task to prepare, I was told.

Iguana promises to raise The Paper Bridge bar yet another notch. For certain, the novelty is bound to garner attention.

Reinardy explains that while iguana is not indigenous to Vietnam, “there is also a long tradition of local cooks taking whatever catch a hunter finds and trying to make as many dishes out of it as possible to show their skill. We’ve eaten similar types of meals with bamboo rats, porcupine, soft-shelled turtle, goat, snake, and water buffalo. So, the style and format are very typical of Vietnamese cuisine.”

Precedent for a related reptilian offering does exist in Vietnam. Species of butterfly lizard can be found by those who seek it out in the highland jungles of the north and the sand dunes near Mui Ne in the south, which is where Reinardy and Nguyen first ate it.

For those who want to order the $160 iguana special, make sure to bring reinforcements as it will serve two to four (leaning to the high side), according to Reinardy. Among the plates in the 10-dish feast will be: iguana cracklins with fried betel leaves; salt-fried iguana leg; coconut water, potato and iguana curry; pulled iguana salad with Vietnamese sorrel and ming aralia greens; and iguana and mung bean congee with pickled allium.

If a chance to eat iguana makes your mouth water, or at least piques your curiosity, this burst of renewed creative energy is meant for you. But beware: Only one iguana special per night will be available.

EAT: The Paper Bridge, 828 SE Ash St., 503-265-8105, thepaperbridgepdx.com. 10:30 am–2 pm and 4–9 pm Thursday–Monday. Reservations via Resy.