Fashion

Green Chic

Shop talk with P-Town's Fashion-forward "eco-nistas."

By Elianna Bar-el & Laura Shinn 243-2122

Anna Cohen www.annacohen.com.

Anna Cohen, 28, takes every concept you have about "green fashion" and rips it wide open. Here's a girl with serious industry training—at the hard-core Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and at FIT Polimoda in Italy—who understands the ins and outs of fashion, both as an art and as a business. She spent time in Florence designing for Italian fashion house Patrizia Pepe. Cohen's got chops and makes the kind of high-end threads that belong on the couture runway. The difference is that her eponymous fashion line is not just green—it's sustainable.

So, what does sustainable mean? Take it from Cohen: "It means your business is a closed-loop system. No energy goes away. It's more than green, deeper than green, it's looking at the cycle of business." Conserving resources instead of wasting them. To make that happen, Cohen and some colleagues recently formed a peer learning group called the Sustainable Design Group. They worked to devise a tangible list of guidelines—used in concert with a competitive product—that helps companies responsibly use resources.

Let's break it down with respect to Cohen's line: It's about choice of raw materials (where she sources fabric and whether it's organic), use of water (she avoids dyeing, except for black and indigo—her entire line is black, white and denim), use of energy (she uses mostly local resources, keeping trucks off the road and planes out of the air), recycling and reclamation (she uses fabrics made with recycled materials, such as wood and bamboo cotton), social equity (she hired a local, family-run production company that employs Russian immigrants to help them get situated in America and teach them English), and reduced waste (for instance, she produces this absolutely gorgeous bamboo dress that is just one piece of fabric, with no scraps left over).

The urge to go green is deep-rooted for Cohen. She grew up on the banks of the Molalla River with her artist parents, who instilled a sense of responsibility toward the earth in their daughter. She almost became a naturopath—she spent a year in high school working for Mexico's Secretary of Health—but after the discovery of her skills with a Singer, she changed course. Years later, after a run through the industry wringer, both in New York and Italy, she wondered: "Can fashion heal, too?" In looking for the answer, she's joined the ranks of eco-couturiers such as Sir Paul's fashionable daughter, Stella McCartney, and Sara Cross of coolnotcruel designing chic clothes that are more fashion-conscientious than fashion-conscious.

More Earth-friendly Threads:

Greenloop 1785 Willamette Falls Drive, 656-5483, www.thegreenloop.com.

In the back alley of a teeny-tiny, unassuming building in West Linn lives a very fashion-forward store called Greenloop, a little shop hawking "green" clothes and accessories. Run by 32-year-old attorney Aysia Wright, Greenloop's mission is to create an outlet where consumers can find eco-friendly high style with a modern sensibility. And as of April of last year, Greenloop is also online—so those of you wary of wasting oil (or, um, who don't want leave PDX) can shop from home. Here, you can find clothes from coolnotcruel and local gal Anna Cohen, as well as beauty products by TerrEssentials. "Our store gets away from green's grungy, hippie-ish, staid reputation," says Wright. And from what she's heard, we'll be seeing more businesses similar to Greenloop—using green living as a broad lifestyle concept—coming soon. We're green with...excitement.

Redux 811 E Burnside St., 231-7336, www.reduxpdx.com.

When Tamara Goldsmith was writing the business plan for Redux, a jewelry and accessories boutique across the street from the Doug Fir, she didn't want to be pigeonholed as another Portland craft store. Not that there's anything wrong with that—but Goldsmith wanted to be unique. "And that's hard to do in this town," she laughs. So she focused not necessarily on recycled products, but reinvented wares; things that had had one life—or several—and were reincarnated in an entirely different structure. You know those groovy seatbelt totes from Harveys Bags? That's one example, but Redux goes beyond the utilitarian category. Think gorgeous baubles that once were estate jewels (Goldsmith herself does a lot of the jewelry), or a KitchenAid appliance as the base for a lamp. "I look for the element of surprise," Goldsmith says.

Sameunderneath 915 N Shaver St., 223-3592, www.sameunderneath.com.

Although it recently opened the doors of its brand-spankin'-new store, Sameunderneath has plied its wares around town for the past seven years. With a blend of street-wise designs, silk-screen prints and sustainable, eco-friendly fabrics made from bamboo, soy, hemp and banana peel, the collection is a mix of casual-yet-sharp poplin button-ups, colorful zip-up tricot track jackets, and fitted tunics with a fresh, organic color palette. Think granola surfer meets hip-hop slam poet—with choice standards for designs and textiles far beyond what meets the eye.

Linea, by Jess Beebe At Seaplane, 827 NW 23rd Ave., 234-2409, and Una, 2802 SE Ankeny St., 235-2326.

With a constant fancy for creating flowingly romantic yet wearable frocks, and simplistic separates, Jess Beebe has her sophisticated but adventurously detailed look down pat. With her Linea '06 collection—featured at Seaplane and, most recently, Una—Beebe has created an organic mix of clean geometric lines in natural silk crepe dresses and fine leaf cotton shirts and linens.

Three For the Road

Three people. Three originals. Three looks to steal.

By Elianna Bar-El

WW randomly scoured our favorite streets and asked random people about their seemingly random fashion tastes.

But what we found was anything but random. In a town that is proud to pair running shoes with a smart business suit, we found people who actually put a little thought into what they wear (who knew?). In one short afternoon we talked to several city scenesters, ranging from those who appreciate upscale boutique bling to those who'd never dare set foot in a major department store unless it was to visit the lost and found. The verdict? Our unscientific survey leads us to believe that the majority of Portlanders like their clothing cheap and chic. Here's a sample.

Milica Markovic Spotted on Northwest 5th Avenue and Hoyt Street.

Stats: College student, 26, works with the World Affairs Council of Oregon's International Visitor Program. She grew up in Montenegro.

On her way back from a day of slamming down her Visa at local boutiques, Markovic was shocked when WW approached her. "Of all the days to be photographed, gosh, this is horrible," she spouted to us in her soft Serbian accent. "Please, let me at least put on lip gloss."

Best place to shop in P-town: "I don't know. Portland doesn't have that great of a shopping scene."

Would never set foot in: Mario's. "It's way overpriced, and their style is so last year. I mean, if you go to Europe, everything is so ahead there."

She wears: Earrings ($2.50, Forever 21, 340 SW Morrison St., 241-0488, and other locations), Paul Frank sunglasses ($100, Reynolds Optical, 519 SW Park Ave., 223-8813, and other locations), BCBG shoes ($90, Sole, 1033 NW Couch St., 222-7653), slacks ($22 at "Oh my gosh, don't make me say it," Forever 21), lime pashmina ($99, she got in on sale in a shop in Chicago), striped pink tank (gift from a friend), green leather satchel (Christmas present).

Alyssa Tibbs Spotted on Northwest 10th Avenue and Couch Street.

Stats: College student, 20, runs track, majors in criminal justice. Born in Nebraska. Currently lives on campus.

Tibbs was born for the camera and a good bargain. Excited about her outfit—and where each piece came from—she could barely spit it out without losing her breath. She wanted us to know that she was recently in Salt Lake City, Utah, for a regional track meet. From the looks of it, she did a little mall running, too.

Favorite store of all time: A mall store (of course), American Eagle Outfitters.

What she likes (but is beyond her budget): Lucky Brand and Diesel. "I'm a starving student. I need to eat and can't afford a $125 pair of jeans."

She wears: Fuchsia Nike track skirt suit ($60, Nike Factory Outlet, 2650 NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., 281-5901), hoop earrings ($6, Claire's Boutique, Pioneer Place, 700 SW 5th Ave., 228-5800, and other locations), glitter racer-back tank ($3), gold shoes ($10), gold purse ($6, all bought at a mall in Salt Lake). Rings were a gift from a lady at church.

Wes Robinson Spotted on Northwest 9th Avenue and Flanders Street.

Stats: Musician, 23, and barista at Urban Grind Coffee House. Grew up in West Hollywood. Currently lives in Northeast Portland.

At first, Robinson was a little hesitant to be interviewed about what kind of fashion god he is. "What you guys gettin' at?" he asked. But soon he warmed up and got to talking, especially about his music. He plays guitar and sings in the band TaFetta Crime—"rock 'n' roll with a soulful edge," he says—and has a penchant for vibrant colors and L.A. chichiness.

Scoffs at: Urban Outfitters. "It's all overpriced crap."

What he thinks is sweet: "Any place with bright, unique clothing." Thrift shops.

He wears: Polka-dot yellow button-down shirt ($3, Red Light, 3590 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 963-8888), ripped-up jeans ($30, Meier and Frank, 621 SW 5th Ave., 223-0512, and other locations), Prada knock-off sunglasses ($15, street vendor in Los Angeles), snakeskin loafers ($60, Aldo, Pioneer Place, 700 SW 5th Ave., 274-0029, and other locations).

Two for the Street (spotted on Southeast 8th Avenue and Ankeny Street):

Cameron Elder, 29, wears: White v-neck, $15, American Apparel; vintage belt, $12, vintage cowboy boots, $34 at Red Light; Used Frankie B Jeans, $40 at Buffalo Exchange.

Alex Hischier, 26, wears: Leather vest, $3 at Value Village; Diesel Jeans, $16, Buffalo Exchange; Gaucho packer boots, $120, Portland Outdoor Store; tan Fedora, $20, Lived-in Lover.

One Piece Says It All

By Laura Shinn and Elianna Bar-el

When summer heats up, less is more. Check out our roundup of sexy single pieces from local designers and local shops.

1. Lindsay wears the Signature WW Summer Swimsuit (priceless) made specially by Pamela Levenson (Poppi Swim, 4831 NE 42nd Ave., 282-5159, www.poppiswim.com). Retro '70s strapless with high-cut leg.

2. Eric wears the Lance Short ($48) by Sameunderneath (Sameunderneath, 915 N Shaver St., 223-3592, www.sameunderneath.com). One hundred percent cotton twill with a custom logo print, in cayenne, moss and smoke. Slant-front pockets and SoCal flair.

3. Lindsay wears the Bauble Necklace ($275) by Scarlet Chamberlin (890-7800, scarlet@sforscarlet.com). A brilliant cluster of faceted amazonite teardrops, yellow chalcedony and chrysocolla briolettes woven with antiqued silver and gold chains.

4. Eric wears the ecru Straight-Leg ($135) by John Blasioli (www.abrokenspoke.com). Streamlined fit and wide, half-moon front pockets for the dapper gentleman brave enough to rock the light shade and backside sans pockets—a design previously reserved for the ladies.

5. Lindsay wears Bohemia Wedges ($685) by Dries Van Noten (Halo, 1425 NE Broadway, 331-0366). These babies will elevate your style (and pocketbook) to new heights.

6&7. Eric wears Alex sunglasses in tangerine and Lindsay wears Alex sunglasses in sea (both $85) by Amy Sacks (510A NW 23rd Ave., 274-0410, www.amysacks.com). Bold and bright, these square shades are the perfect accessory to your glowing tan.

8. Lindsay wears the Silk Siren Skirt ($400) by Elizabeth Dye (the English Dept., 724 NW 23rd Ave., 224-0724, www.theenglishdept.com). Sweeping teal and striped gold with tiered taffeta ruffles.

9. Lindsay wears the Celine Top ($125) by Elizabeth Dye (the English Dept.). Victorian ruffled tunic with pearl enclosures fastened at the neck, and an open-slit back. A dance of periwinkle stripes and stars.

10. Eric wears the Mustard Poplin ($90) by John Blasioli (358-0076, www.abrokenspoke.com). Bright button-up with a tailored fit. Three-button asymmetrical detailing off right shoulder.

11. Eric wears the Dust Combat Zip-Up ($140) by John Blasioli (www.abrokenspoke.com). One for the ranks, this sharp, militant jacket commands attention with a high- and wide-banded waist, deviant button detailing, and an acute popped collar.

12. Lindsay wears the Mery sandals ($298) by Fiorentini & Baker (Halo). Deep-green, thick-cut, criss-cross slingbacks with a narrow peep toe and sturdy cork wedge.

13. Lindsay wears the Wicker Dress ($220) by Elizabeth Dye (the English Dept.). An upscale baby-doll version of the "little white dress," topped with capped ruffled sleeves; a single, bright-white button; and red stitching.

Table of Contents:

INTRODUCTION | OUTDOORS | FOOD & DRINK | ARTS | FASHION | HOME, WORK & MORE

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